ASURETI/Georgia, APRIL 5 2015 (The Conway Bulletin) — Manfred Tikhonov moved from Berlin to Georgia in the early 2000s and for the last 11 years he’s been making wine in Asureti, a former German village 40km south east of Tbilisi. (April 22).
Tikhonov, 67, spends his days slowly restoring his German-style timber Fachwerk house, built in the 1870s, and making wine the Georgian way, in clay vessels (kvevri) buried in the ground.
He has learnt everything about wine from his neighbours and produces up to 2,000 litres of wine a year. “It’s not enough to make profit,” he said. “But I get a pension from Germany.”
Asureti has long winemaking traditions. Formerly known as Elisabethal, it was founded in the early 19th century, when Russian Tsar Alexander I invited Germans from Swabia, a region in the southwest of Germnay, to settle. Tikhonov said Asureti Swabians were producing red wine for the high rank officials in Tsarist Russia and then the Soviet Union, until they were deported to Kazakhstan in 1941 when Soviet leader Josef Stalin worried that they may side with the advancing Nazi armies in World War II.
Barely any of them returned. The only reminders of the past are shabby Fachwerk houses, ruins of an Evangelical Church and overgrown gravestones engraved with old Swabian.
“Maybe one day I will also be buried here,” said Tikhonov, closing the graveyard gates.
Later, at home, Tikhonov poured a glass of his 2013 red. He apologised as this was not his best wine. There had been no running water and he had not been able to clean the clay vessels for the new grapes that year.
It has been hard to adapt to the local way of living. “Everything goes slower than I want,” he said. But he is not sorry to have exchanged buzzing Berlin to a quiet life in Asureti. “Free- range cows, chicken and dogs remind me of my childhood in the East Germany sixty years ago. Time stands still, and I love it.”
ENDS
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(News report from Issue No. 228, published on April 22 2015)